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Izamal
Charmant village colonial à 70 km de Mérida et à 90 km de Valladolid,
dont les maisons sont peintes en ocre-jaune et en blanc sur la route
secondaire Chichén
Itzá-Mérida,
ce qui lui vaut le surnom de "ciudad amarilla".
C'est une des raisons expliquant pourquoi ses habitants sont appelés
"fils du soleil". Fondé à la moitié
du XVIème siècle, ce village fait partie des "villages
magiques" et constitue le plus ancien village de la Péninsule
du Yucatán. Son nom en langue maya est Itzamatul ou "rosée
qui descend du ciel". C'est un important centre commercial
de la région où furent élevées sept
pyramides mayas, l'une d'elles ayant servi de base aux espagnols
pour la construction du couvent majestueux San
Antonio de Padua. Les rues aux pavés et aux lampadaires de style colonial, propres, tranquilles, sûres et pittoresques, ainsi que son excellente gastronomie, sont une invitation à visiter Izamal.
Izamal est également appelé la cité des "Trois Cultures" du fait de son appartenance aux restes des cultures préhispaniques, coloniales et contemporaines situées dans le coeur de la Péninsule
du Yucatán. Elle fait partie de la "Route touristique de l'Orient" (Mérida-Izamal-Chichén
Itzá-Valladolid-Ek'Balam-Culuba-Rio Lagartos).
En effet, le monastère de Saint Antoine de Padoue édifié en 1562 fut bâti
avec les pierres de la pyramide maya de Popul Chac. Tout un symbole :
du temple maya le plus important, détruit, naquit l’un
des premiers et plus importants sanctuaires catholiques de la Nouvelle
Espagne, fondé par Fray Diego de Landa et les missionnaires
franciscains. Aujourd’hui, les traces des artisans mayas sont
encore visibles sur ses pierres. Il fallait un couvent monumental,
majestueux, pour imposer la culture hispanique et la religion catholique
aux vaincus et marquer la fin d’un monde et l’avènement
d’un autre. A côté, se trouve l’église.
A l’entrée, des fresques datant du XVIe siècle
ornent le sanctuaire.
Le couvent possède le plus grand atrium après celui
de Saint Pierre, au Vatican et fut l'objet d'une rencontre de Sa
Sainteté Jean Paul II avec les ethnies, lors d'une de ses
visites au Mexique en 1993. Chaque 15 août
s’y célèbre la fête de la Vierge d’Izamal.
Des calèches tirées par les chevaux promènent
le visiteur dans un dédale de rues colorées, l'emmenant
vers les places, les parcs, les faubourgs historiques et bien sûr
les charmantes ruelles au milieu desquelles Fray Diego de Landa
(deuxième évêque du Yucatán au XVIème
siècle) semble nous parler du quotidien d'un village vivant
et fier de son passé. Le soir, celui-ci nous offre une expérience
unique en contemplant une voûte céleste étoilée
bordée par les ombres des pyramides, des temples et des grandes
bâtisses coloniales, ombres qui semblent émerger d'un
long rêve.
Photos ci-dessus : différentes vues d'Izamal (Yucatán, Mexique)
Son et Lumière « Voix et Magie d’Izamal »,
au Couvent du lundi au samedi inclus, chaque semaine à
20H30, en langues espagnol et maya, avec en toile de fond le monastère
illuminé. C'est de TOUTE BEAUTE.
A deux pâtés de maisons du Zócalo vers le nord,
la pyramide Kinich Kakmó, bâtie en
l'honneur du Dieu soleil, en bonne partie dégagée,
mérite le détour. Avec ses 195 m de côté,
elle était l'une des plus grandes de la péninsule (site ouvert de 8h à 17h, tlj, entrée gratuite).
Parc Zammá tous les dimanches entre 9h et 15h : artisanat, danses folkloriques et musique "Izamal en Domingo".
Sur la route vers Mérida,
arrêtez-vous à l'entrée du village de Hoctún connu pour son étonnant cimetière de tombes peintes
de motifs fleuris par des artistes locaux.
Les habitants d'Izamal y cultivent toujours le sisal, la fibre naturelle
qui a fait la richesse de l'Etat du Yucatán.
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Extrait du site de l'Unesco : Izamal. Inscription sur la Liste Indicative
en octobre 2008 (la liste indicative est un inventaire des biens
que chaque Etat partie a l'intention de proposer pour inscription
au cours des années à venir).
Izamal is known as the "Hill City" because it has in its
urban zone, several archaeological vestiges located on the hill
sides. The extension of the remains of pre Hispanic constructions
as estimated could occupy an area of 10 kilometers square.Today city of Izamal was a remarkable site of the
ancient Mayan civilization. It was probably the largest large city
of plains of the north of Yucatán. The investigators have
found and catalogued around 80 pre Hispanic structures within the
layout of the city. One of the most important pyramids is the Kinich
Kak Moo, that is the third pre-Hispanic structure of greater volume
in Mexico and at least two stone roads are known, called sacbeóob
(ways) that communicated it with other important settlements.The dimension of its buildings and the network
of roads, constructed between 600 and 800 A.C., are evidence of
the political and economic power that Izamal exerted on a vast territory,
larger than five thousand kilometers square. Here a particular construction
technique was developed, mainly by using megalithic carved blocks,
with defined architectonical characteristics like rounded corners,
projected moldings and superstructures done with perishable materials. Of the hegemony of Izamal on an ample region is
evidenced by the roads that joined the city with dependent populations
- like Kantunil, 18 kilometers to the south, and Aké, 29
kilometers to the west and by the control upon commerce and the
production of salt through Xcambó, a port located at the
Northern coast of the peninsula. Five pre-Columbian structures are still visible
in Izamal (and from a considerable distance in all directions).The
first one is a pyramid dedicated to a solar deity, Kinich Kak Moo,
which means macaw of fire, solar face, where worship is rendered
to this deity as a source of life, by offering flowers, fruits,
animals and aromatic substances. This building is the highest of
Yucatan and, by its volume, the third most important of the country.
It reaches 35 meters of height. In the base its walls measure 195
meters from east to west and 173 meters from north to south. Upon
this base a pyramid of 10 levels exists. Towards the Southeast there is the so called pyramid
Itzamatul and, located at the south flank of what used to be an
enormous square, there is a structure denominated Ppap Hol Chak,
partially destroyed in the 16th century when the Franciscan monastery
was constructed upon it.The southwestern side of the central square is
limited by another well-known pyramid Hun Pik Tok, and in the west
the public space is closed with the temple of Kabul, where a great
stucco large mask of Itzamná god existed, which was drawn
in 1840 by Federick Catherwood and published by John Lloyd Stephens. Other residential constructions that are samples
of Izamal's historical development are the Xtul, the Habuc and the
Chaltun Has. These great knolls are witnesses of a process of superposition
of buildings that lasted several centuries and that originally supported
a series of temples and palaces. In order to determine the religious social, political
and administrative importance of pre-Hispanic Izamal, it is convenient
to mention that after more than one decade of research works, 163
archaeological structures have been mapped within the urban area
of the contemporary city and also thousands of residential units
in a series of pre Hispanic communities located in the surroundings
have been registered. Also, in the whole region that historically
was called Ah Kin Chel, hundreds of sites have been detected that
shared the same architectonic characteristics of Izamal. At the
present time, there are still little more than 20 structures left
that all together make of Izamal, archaeologically spoken a first
rank site for the country. After the conquest of Yucatan in the 16th century,
the Spaniards demanded the foundation and construction of a city,
which began upon the existing Mayan city. Due to the presence of
two enormous structures, it was decided to build a small Christian
temple on the greater pyramid and a great Franciscan convent upon
the Acropolis. This convent received the name of San Antonio de
Padua. The construction of the convent began in 1553 by
fray Diego de Landa. Given the dimensions of the pyramid, the land
of the set of the church and the caretaker's office of the convent,
chapel and vestibule, occupy 14 thousand 678 square meters. The
church is found in the center with its facade to the west. The temple
and caretaker's office were finished in 1554. The architect of this
last part was fray Juan de Mérida. The work of the convent
concluded in 1561, being guardian fray Francisco de la Torre. The church has a barrel vault and tracery, some
windows of Moorish arcs and flying buttresses in the apse that give
it an excellent aspect. It conserves the title of la Purísima
Concepción (the Purest Conception). It is a single ship of
51,90 meters in length. In the central part the two lateral doors
communicate to the left with the convent and the right with a common
courtyard and the chapel of the Third Order. To the north of the church the convent was built,
to the east the orchard and the cemetery with his chapel; in the
lower part are located, to the south, the temple of the Third Order
and, to the west, the great vestibule, whose arcade was finished
in 1618. And so was built what would be the greatest religious
center of the Mayan converted to the Catholicism in the Yucatán
Peninsula; like in pre-Hispanic time when worship was rendered to
Itzamná, Izamal became the destiny of multiple peregrinations
that - still today, arrive daily to celebrate patron saints in the
diverse chapels of the site. Also, Izamal has been named "City of the Three
Cultures", in reference to the architectonic and cultural fusion
of the pre-Columbian, colonial and modern societies in the architectural
styles found in its houses and public spaces that have given identity
to its inhabitants. Izamal has been a great center of religious peregrination
from immemorial times. For the Mayans of today, Izamal continues
being the destiny of their pilgrimages, since the image of the Immaculate
Conception of Maria, gained its devotion. The image that presides
over the greater altarpiece of the temple of the convent - Our Lady
of Izamal - was taken to Izamal from Guatemala by orders of Fray
Diego de Landa (the well-known and controversial bishop from Yucatan,
author of the "Relation of the things of Yucatan" who
lived in Izamal). In Izamal the Mayan language is spoken, at least,
as much as Spanish. As for the language, the rites, the architecture,
in this community of sober, white and yellow houses, ancestral customs
remain: the crossbred food, the way of dressing, the music... daily
routine expressions are the synthesis of a distant past in the time,
but as near as the Mayan monuments that rise in the center of the
town, between houses of the colonial time (fin de l'extrait) : .
Eglises de Dzitás et Tunkás sur le parcours Valladolid-Izamal



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